Frequently Asked Questions

Foam/Foil is a better performing product for crawl spaces. Our unique liner is thicker (150 mil thick) provides padding, insulation (conductance and reflectance), prevents condensation and NO notorious “cat pee” odor associated as with plastic liners.

The foil/foam reflective insulation barrier reflects lost energy from the home’s subfloor and air ducts radiating it back into the house keeping your crawl space and lower level floors nice and warm in the winter.

The foil/foam reflective barrier allows us to create a much more temperature-stable and humidity-controlled environment with less energy input into the system.

This is a real problem that occurs in even code compliant crawl space. IES has had extensive experience in remediation of odor issue over the years and are proud to say we have a 100% success rate with our ammonia/cat pee odor mitigation projects.

The “cat pee” odor is associated with the plastic liners, inadequate air sealing and bacterial overgrowth.

Off gassing from expanding foam can also create strong odors.

“Ask our clients” – call us to request the contact information for our clients that have experienced these issues, they are happy to discuss information to our future clients!

IES preference is to use a supply vent where possible because both the initial and lifetime cost of a supply vent are substantially lower than that of a dehumidifier.  A supply vent requires zero maintenance and should never need replacement. A dehumidifier, on the other hand, will add significant initial cost to your project, requires annual maintenance, regular filter changes, and [because it is mechanical] will eventually need to be replaced.

It is important to note that the drying mechanism (i.e. supply vent or dehumidifier) is only one part of a closed crawl space system. An IES Insulating Radiant Moisture Barrier Lined Closed Crawl Space is designed as a system to control humidity and condensation, prevent mold, and protect IAQ for many years to come with minimal maintenance and energy input.

If the closed crawl space system is clean, well sealed and insulated, very little energy input is needed to achieve these goals.  Too often we have seen closed crawl space systems that rely on expensive dehumidifiers to compensate for poorly installed closed crawl space systems.  It is true that a poorly installed or incomplete system can in fact allow IAQ issues to persist and in some cases cause new ones to occur.

There are some cases in which a dehumidifier might be a preferred option over a supply vent for your home including:

• If your HVAC system does not have the needed capacity to condition the crawl space (this is rare as the needed amount of conditioned air is small compared to the needs of living areas)
• If your temperature preferences (thermostat settings) are outside of the normal range for extended periods of time (i.e. less air conditioning or heat use than is typical). You will need to maintain thermostat settings between 65-75 degrees year-round.
• If you do not live in the home full time or otherwise have control of HVAC temperature settings i.e. rental property or vacation home.

Effective landscape drainage diverts water around your home/crawl space, not into your foundation and crawl space. A closed crawl space is designed to address

No closed crawl space system (including ours) is designed to withstand a flood event or chronic water intrusion issues. If water from outside is getting through the foundation of your home and into the crawl space it can cause a host of issues for your home that will not be addressed by a closed crawl space system.

The best practice solution (and often the best value) is to invest in exterior measures to prevent water from contacting your foundation and entering the crawl space wherever possible. Doing so before you invest in a closed crawl space system is the best way to protect your closed crawl space investment from water damage.

In addition, it is also important to include an interior drainage system of some kind as part of your closed crawl space design to allow water to get out “in the event of a plumbing break”. This is often just a single “drain to daylight” or sump pump that discharges outside. Many homes will already have a drain in the crawl space, and most are clogged at the discharge point.

Our closed crawl space system is designed specifically to prevent moisture and mold in the crawl space. A side effect of the system is that the crawl space becomes an environment that is less desirable to insects and rodents and though the work will include sealing any accessible gaps and penetrations between the crawl space and outside we cannot guarantee no pest entry. That being said, we do install sticky plates in the crawl space to monitor pest activity and with our annual Healthy Home Inspection Service, we can catch pest problems and make adjustments if necessary or refer you to a pest control service provider.

This depends on the cause of the noise. If it’s related to moisture, the closed crawl space may help or solve the issue. Once the system is installed, over the course of the year the moisture levels in the crawl space will stabilize and this will translate to moisture levels in the wood framing and flooring of your home. This may result in less noise, it may not. We would advise you to work with a flooring expert to determine the cause of the noise and what recommendations they would make to remedy it.

Your crawl space will be clean, dry, radiant barrier bright, durable, low maintenance, no mold, or insects, constant temperature and humidity 😊 It’s now a wonderful storage area and great place for other trades to work. Just be sure the trades people clean up their mess and call IES for annual Health Home Service.

IES installs a runner at the entry point, which provides extra protection. Service workers should take care to prevent damage to the liner including protective shoe coverings.  Moving blankets or cardboard are helpful in preventing damage to the barrier while moving tools, equipment or materials around in the crawl space.

Encourage service workers to let you know if they think there is a problem, or something is damaged. Repairs are usually simple but best-done ASAP to prevent further compromise of the system.

Loose debris from renovations or construction in the closed crawl space should be cleaned once renovations are completed.

Exterior crawl space doors should not be left open for extended periods if avoidable to prevent outdoor pollutants/humidity and pest entry into the closed crawl space.

Your closed crawl space can be used as a clean, dry storage area, however, please avoid storing harmful or dangerous chemicals, fuel, or lumber/paper.  We also recommend avoiding using cardboard boxes for stored items, plastic totes are preferable.

IES recommends an annual “Healthy Home Service” be completed for your closed crawl space. This annual checkup covers a full inspection, cleaning and minor repairs as needed, inspection for water intrusion, a dryer vent cleaning and more to ensure your system is operating at it’s best and as designed, cost is typically $375 but is dependent on your specific system.

IES also offers cleanup/checkup visits if there is a need for a standard service fee (usually $375).  If you have renovation or other service work that you think may have impacted your closed crawl space, we encourage you to reach out to us and we can advise you regarding any specific recommendations.

Our Healthy Home Service is an annual maintenance program designed to maintain warranties and ensure your investment is one that will last a lifetime. With this service our crew will address each of the following:

• inspect all IES work that was performed (including your crawl space, air ducts and/or attic)
• perform minor repairs and touch-ups (as needed)
• replace bug sticky plates and check to see if there are bug/rodent entry points that need to be re-sealed
• inspect crawl space for water intrusion and plumbing leaks
• assess supply vent and/or dehumidifier to ensure it is properly dehumidifying your crawl space
• clean the Filtered Fresh Air Ventilation System and provide a new year’s worth of filters
• clean and sanitize your HVAC coil – they will also inspect air ducts for potential mold growth (if accessible)
• perform a dryer vent cleaning (if accessible)
• renew your “no condensation, no mold warranty” for another year

Our FFAVS is a simple, low cost and effective way to bring filtered fresh air into your home.

The Filtered Fresh Air Ventilation System is an add-on component to your HVAC system. When your HVAC system is heating, cooling or circulating air it will also bring in a little bit of Filtered Air From Outside.  The carbon pre filter is changed each season and the secondary electrostatic filter can be washed and reused.

The benefits of filtered fresh air are many, less pollen, more oxygen, less CO2, smog, and radon combined to make the FFAVS a priceless add-on to your HVAC system.

Filtered fresh air and the quantity of incoming air is especially critical in newer homes, which are built to be tight. Tight Building Syndrome (TBS) is a serious health concern as the homes are quickly congested with chemicals off-gassing from building materials.

The fresh air intake will be adjusted to align with your HVAC system and code requirements. For the majority of our clients this produces the desired results without the need for further adjustment. As quoted, the intake damper can be closed manually if outside conditions are not desirable for fresh air ventilation by inserting the filters located behind the grille opening (outside the crawl space) inside of a plastic bag and then reinstalling them. It is also possible to add the ability to control the damper electronically. Depending on the abilities of your current thermostat, an upgrade may be needed to add this feature. This upgrade can be done with the initial install or at a later date. Let us know if you would like to discuss this option in more detail.

The closed crawl space system that we have proposed does not include the use of spray foam insulation on the brick foundation walls. Our system includes a foil/foam flexible insulation blanket that is adhered to the foundation wall. This will provide an excellent vapor/air barrier as well as insulation properties. If significant water intrusion is occurring through the masonry wall, over time this can cause the adhesive to fail. This situation is not covered under warranty and is one of the reasons we recommend addressing water intrusion issues prior to or as part of a closed crawl space project.

Mold can not be completely removed from some air ducts, especially flexible ducts. Air duct mold remediation cost more then air duct cleaning and we want our clients to know that if mold is present, cleaning alone will not get rid of it.

Best practice is inspecting the air ducts and determining their condition and cleaning or mold remediation protocol prior to the air duct cleaning crew arriving.

Not all air ducts can be effectively sanitized due to access challenges and the different types of duct materials installed.

Disinfectants can be sprayed/fogged into the ducts but contacting the mold in all the nooks and crannies is an overstated service/benefit. Also, even mold that has been “killed” by a disinfectant still has its allergenic, and toxicogenic properties.

The removal of colonized mold from plastic flexible air ducts is not feasible in most situations; removal of the ducts is the only method that will confirm the removal of mold from these components of your HVAC system.

In addition, there are practical problems with relying on all existing application methods of fungicides or sanitizers to HVAC interior surfaces as a means to address a colonized mold infestation. First, achieving adequate coverage and dwell time during application of these chemicals inside the ducts via fogging or other techniques is difficult and is without a means to verify efficacy. Second, adding additional potentially harmful chemicals to the home poses additional unnecessary risks to IAQ and the health of the home in general.

“Killing” the mold does not solve the problem as even “dead” or non-viable mold still presents an exposure risk. The safe removal of mold and the conditions that caused it is the best practice method for ensuring the issue has been correctly addressed and the only one that allows for implementing a standard of clearance to your project before getting started that can be independently verified after remediation is completed.

With many molds the danger or health impact has to do with the type, amount and duration of exposure. A person’s general health and immune response also plays a role in the health impact.

The term “black mold” is a commonly used colloquialism meant to denote more harmful known species of mold. It is also a misnomer in that the color or physical appearance to the naked eye of mold is not related to its harmfulness or species but more influenced by the surface it is colonized on, i.e. the nutrients available to it and the local environmental conditions as well as its level of development or phase of life.

Of the thousands of known and identifiable species of mold, most are considered “allergenic” meaning that they are a known irritant. The level of risk is dependent on the extent of exposure and individual sensitivities. Many of these allergenic molds can easily and commonly colonize both indoor and outdoor environments. There are also many species of mold that are typically only found growing in an outdoor environment and when found indoors are usually the result of infiltration rather than colonization. The last group are known as “toxigenic molds” because when growing they produce mycotoxins that are an additional exposure hazard to all individuals. These molds are rarely found in outdoor environments and instead prefer indoor environments and especially wet building materials (i.e. drywall, carpet, paper, wood and particle board). These molds are associated with flood or water damaged buildings and are often called “water loss indicator” molds for this reason.

So, some mold is more dangerous than others and all mold has the potential to be a problem depending on where it is occurring, why, and to what extent as well as who is exposed to it and how often. A thorough inspection and careful assessment by a qualified inspector of the environmental conditions as well as the occupants is the best way to determine the extent of the remediation needed.

Its estimated that over 60% of buildings in America have water damage. Mold needs moisture to grow, therefore if you have visible colonized mold growth then you have moisture/water issues and homes with water issues may be “normal” but in this context it’s best not to be normal, as moisture issue are something to worry about😊.

It’s true that all homes will have mold of some kind.  If by “normal” you mean “common”, we agree.  But if by “normal” you mean not a problem; we say it’s not that simple and it depends on some other factors.  Mold is almost ubiquitous to our world.  When considering if mold is an issue in an environment, we are assessing the current fungal ecology of the environment and comparing it to what is determined to be a “normal” or healthy fungal ecology.  For a residential or commercial building regularly occupied by people this means in general that there are no indoor sources of mold and that the levels of mold inside the environment are lower than outside levels and consist of the same species found in the outdoor environment.

Determining the correct fungal ecology for an environment requires an assessment of the regular use of the environment and the types of individuals who occupy it.  Different situations and individuals will require different levels of cleanliness to remain healthy and chronic exposure to environmental contaminants can cause sensitization in individuals leading to a need for change in the environment.

A thorough inspection is required by IES for any services to proceed. An important part of our inspection process also involves assessing the potential for unexpected issues which allows for accurate planning and establishing expectations for your project.

If during a project our crew discovers any issue that would require a change in the scope of planned work they contact the project leader and inspector to relay the details at which point we would contact you to go over what was found, where, and what options are available. No change in scope or cost for a project would take place without your approval first.

Every member of the IES team is dedicated to the goal of ensuring that every project goes smoothly and that the process is as stress-free as possible for our clients. Our process is imbued with attention to detail and exceptional communication at every step-in order to meet this goal. To be sure, we cannot plan for everything and sometimes the unexpected happens. If it does, please be assured that we will act quickly to resolve any issues to keep your project on track and that you understand all the available options.

Check references; We can provide you with referrals of our fantastic past clients who are now pleased to share their experience with potential future clients, please call our office or ask your project manager for references.

This will be determined on a case by case basis. In short, we will leave that decision up to you. At IES, we take mold very seriously and prioritize containment above all else (to minimize cross-contamination). However, some of our customers do experience mold allergies and varying sensitivities. If you or anyone in the home has known sensitivities to mold, we recommend you/they leave the house on Day 1 (when mold remediation is performed).

Allowing hot or cold air to blow through insulation defeats its purpose. Therefore, pugging the holes that allow air movement is critical for insulation to be effective.

Insulation in your home is like a sweater on a cold day; it helps to trap in heat but if the wind is blowing through your sweater then you will lose heat and feel cold. Air sealing is like putting on a windbreaker over your sweater.

Air sealing as many of the gaps as possible between your unconditioned attic areas and living areas is the most cost-effective way to reduce the amount of energy your home uses for heating and cooling. These gaps that allow air to easily pass into and out of your home contribute to how drafty and dusty your home is which directly affects how comfortable it is. Adding more insulation is helpful for improving energy efficiency and comfort but without air sealing, air leaks will bypass your new insulation making it less effective. Make the most of your new insulation investment by making sure that all the gaps and cracks in your home’s construction beneath the insulation have been correctly sealed first.

A sump pump (or drain) is recommended as best practice as a part of all closed crawl space systems and is actually specified by building code. The role of this drainage device should be in case of emergency water intrusion into the space; water has a way out before pooling and causing greater damage. It should not be seen as a solution for chronic water intrusion issues. IES recommends addressing water intrusion to the extent possible on the outside of the foundation first before investing in interior trenching and french drains. In many cases, these interior drains are not needed.

Both of these options can be excellent at controlling humidity as part of a closed crawl space design if they are designed and installed correctly and each has pros and cons. In most situations, my preference is to use the HVAC method when possible. DEHUMIDIFIER PROS: Precise and dedicated humidity control Does not require use of the HVAC system – of particular value if no HVAC ducting is located in the crawl space or the existing HVAC equipment is too small Your thermostat preferences will not impact the closed crawl space system DEHUMIDIFIER CONS: Much more expensive both initially and over time than HVAC method Requires regular maintenance to ensure your closed crawl space is healthy Will eventually need replacement HVAC PROS: Is much less expensive both initially and over time that a dehumidifier Does not require any additional maintenance after installation and will never need replacement Will work automatically whenever your HVAC system runs HVAC CONS: Your thermostat preference matters for the health of the closed crawl space. Thermostat is recommended to be kept between 65-75 degrees year-round for adequate drying of the closed crawl space. If this range is outside your preferred settings or if you do not control the thermostat, this option may not be a good fit for you. Humidity levels will naturally fluctuate just as they do in your living areas – this is OK! The main goal is to prevent mold by preventing surface water activity (dewpoint). If you prefer a specific humidity level at more times of the year, this option may not be a good fit for you.